Q: Which zipper belongs on a softshell jacket?
Softshell takes a size 5 reverse coil with the teeth turned inward, an open-end bottom and a single auto-lock slider. The reverse construction keeps the flat tape on the outside, which suits the clean face of a bonded or laminated softshell, and coil follows the stretch of the panel better than a molded vislon. Sleeve and chest pockets use a size 3 reverse coil. If the jacket is a light summer weight, a size 4.5 works and saves some bulk at the collar.
- Size 5 reverse coil for the front; size 3 for pockets.
- Knit or slightly elastic tape so the seam can move with the fabric.
- Low-profile slider and a soft pull that will not swing into the chin.
The common pitfall is a rigid woven tape on a four-way stretch shell: the zip stays straight while the fabric stretches, and the front edge waves and cups. Stabilize the seam with a fusible tape before sewing, and avoid over-tensioning the zip during installation, since a softshell cannot be pressed back into shape after the needle has pulled it.