Which zipper is right for a wool coat?

Q: Which zipper is right for a wool coat?

A wool coat needs a size 5 metal or vislon zipper, open-end, with a two-way slider on any style that falls below the knee. Heavy wool loads the chain when the coat hangs open, and a coil zip will spread and split under that weight; metal or molded vislon holds its shape. The tape should be a firm woven quality that has been pre-shrunk, because dry cleaning will shrink an untreated tape and pull the front edge out of line.

• Size 5 metal or vislon, open-end; two-way on long coats.
• Firm, pre-shrunk tape rated for dry cleaning.
• Large pull that can be used with gloved hands.

The usual mistake is a coil zip chosen because it is cheap and smooth: on a 600 gsm wool it splits behind the slider within a season. The second pitfall is ignoring the nap direction, which makes one front panel hang differently and produces a wavy placket. Cut both fronts in the same direction and let the coat hang overnight before the final zip stitch.