Q: Which zipper is used in a wedding dress?
A wedding dress uses a size 3 invisible nylon coil, closed-end, in a tape dyed to match the gown, with an invisible slider and a hook and eye above it. On heavy satin, duchesse or a beaded bodice, move up to a size 4.5 so the chain can carry the strain without spreading. The zip is set 2 to 3 mm from the fold, and the hook and eye takes the load at the top of the opening rather than the slider.
- Size 3 invisible coil; size 4.5 for heavy or beaded fabric.
- Shade-matched tape that will not yellow.
- Hook and eye above the slider to carry the strain.
Shade mismatch is the first pitfall: an ivory gown with a white zip shows a faint grey line down the back. The second is waviness caused by the layers underneath. Boning, lining and interfacing all push against the zip, so the bodice must be supported before the zip is inserted, and the tape must never be stretched during sewing. Test the plastic teeth under the iron, because a hot press will melt them.